The dining experience was an ode to all things Gower. There were canapés of Welsh rarebit, prepared with Gower Gold Ale, combined with pots of mouthwatering cockles mixed with cheese, bacon, and a newfound favorite of mine - laverbread, an edible seaweed masquerading as bread.
We savoured the plump asparagus sourced from Manselfold Farm, located just a short distance from our accommodation options. Yet, the highlight was possibly the region's famed speciality - saltmarsh lamb roasted overnight, amply sided with unctuous bone marrow gravy, crispy roast potatoes, and a selection of six farm-fresh vegetables procured from Murton Farm, situated a few miles away. The meal concluded with decadently soft brownies warmed with sloe gin, courtesy of the Gower Gin Company.
The magician behind this exuberant spread was a Greek maestro named Christos Georgakis. He first honed his culinary skills at his father's taverna in Piraeus. Since moving to Gower two decades ago, he has focused on utilizing local ingredients, scoring him awards for best pub fare - specifically at the King Arthur in the quaint village of Reynoldston - and propelling him to the semi-finals of MasterChef: The Professionals.
During the lockdown, he pivoted to offering takeaways. Presently, he operates as a private chef (with prices starting at £50 pp for a four-course meal), which has become an appealing and safe alternative during these pandemic times - offering a dining experience minus the crowds, the requirement for a babysitter, and the necessity for a designated driver.
Experience the culinary delights of south-west Wales on a fresh and exciting foodie tour. The Gower peninsula has a rich history of delicious food, nurtured by its fertile farmland and vast coastal areas. For centuries, this region has been self-sufficient, relying on its own resources due to the lack of efficient road connections.
In recent years, a wave of innovative food ventures has emerged, combining traditional ingredients with contemporary flavors that are seasonal, organic, and environmentally friendly. From delicacies like cockles and laverbread with quail egg to other mouthwatering creations, there is a wealth of options to explore.
The arrival of Covid-19 posed challenges to these budding establishments, just as they were starting to flourish. However, with a surge in domestic tourism and a growing demand for locally sourced products, the future looks bright for these ventures once the lockdown restrictions are lifted.
Discover the unique culinary heritage of the Gower peninsula and indulge in a world of flavors that celebrate its natural beauty and abundant produce. Plan your foodie tour today and be captivated by the tastes and aromas that define this remarkable region.
Experiencing Seafood Delicacies at Môr Restaurant, Mumbles
George Cooke and Matt Heaven brought their dream to life in October 2019, when they transported the simplicity of an east London bistro to the heart of south Wales. They opened the Môr restaurant (which translates to 'sea') at a location previously occupied by a nondescript Chinese eatery on Mumbles seafront. Even though their pricing was a notch above the average in Swansea (roughly £45 for three courses), it quickly became a crowd favorite due to the unique value proposition: they forged partnerships with local fishermen and farmers, tailoring their menu around only the finest ingredients.
Local fish enthusiasts deliver lobsters and scallops, with the latter being sourced from the Lundy Island while the former reliably sends them messages about his upcoming bass fishing trips from a Gower beach. Dishes here may present an upscale flair, but the ambiance remains homely, this is emphasized through the serving staff who we found dressed in cycle shorts and a Hawaiian shirt. An unforeseen hit at their 2020-launched bar, Elwyn, is a sandwich featuring ox-tongue, a recommendation from their butcher. Its homemade, delightfully chewy crisps are a can't-miss as well.
The comparison of Mumbles to the popular Padstow is one shared by Matt and George, who couldn't hold back their praise for the neighbouring Iraqi kebab restaurant, which is well-known for true-to-taste Basra tabbouleh and hummus. Oystermouth, the local area, has a strong background in shellfish, commemorated with an oyster reseeding project undertaken by the Mumbles Oyster Company that should yield a harvest in few years' time (for now, Môr sources its oysters from the Menai Strait). The inauguration of a 16-room luxury boutique hotel at Oyster Wharf expected later this year could further validate this new Padstow parallel.
Our accommodation was the newly built Snugl, an elegant and private studio located in the delightful Reynoldston – a hidden gem that was once a garage.
Nestled among local gastronomic hotspots, it's proximity to the moorlands where wild ponies graze is a unique attraction. A short 15-minute stroll allows you to reach Arthur’s Stone, offering breathtaking vistas, including views stretching south beyond Oxwich Bay to Lundy and northward, offering an enticing glimpse of the Burry estuary.
The southern expanse of Gower is adorned with awe-inspiring beaches, but gastronomes will be drawn to the north coast, renowned for its abundant marshland. We arrived too early to forage for samphire at Whiteford Sands, home to an iconic, wave-battered cast-iron lighthouse, but we took delight in observing the local sheep, deftly navigating the marshland as the tide receded.
Flocks of sheep can be spotted amongst the picturesque landscape of Whiteford Sands.
Housing the Gower saltmarsh lamb is the historical relic of the 14th-century Weobley Castle, which in itself is a sight to behold. The Pritchard family diligently rears around 1,500 lambs per annum on the marshlands beneath this ancient fortress. The lambs consume a diet of sea lavender, samphire and sorrel, imparting a remarkable taste to the meat. Albeit the castle remains formally closed, patrons of the adjacent store have the leeway to amble around its structures. During normal times, it serves as a moody backdrop for folk and beer celebrations - possibly resuming in 2022. Its popularity is evident as the lamb is completely sold out yearly, and a fresh supply of meat is replenished every July.
In the olden days, premium lamb was the preserve of the wealthy whereas the common man primarily feasted on cockles and seaweed. A few miles east, in Wernffrwd, is a location that pays homage to this tradition. Enshrined in history is the Jones family operation, Selwyn’s Seafoods. Established documents reveal that this family business first became taxpaying merchants in 1950. However, at the bustling café and tourist hotspot they inaugurated last summer, Brian Jones revealed that his predecessors have been engaged in cockle harvesting from the estuary since time immemorial.
The Weobley Castle provides an eyeful with the surrounding saltmarsh.
There's a picture displayed that holds an intriguing tale of a hardworking woman who, though closing in on 90, has shared in the arduous collection of more cockles than one can count. In those days, a young lady meticulously using rake and riddle to gather the tiny creatures, which when we visited in an icy May, still bore their small size. Traditional South-West Wales cuisine encourages enjoying these cockles with vinegar and pepper, and if you're around, you can also snag some at local eateries like the well-loved Roma Fish Bar in Penclawdd.
Another regional speciality sold at Selwyn's is what Richard Burton famously referred to as "the caviar of the Welshman" – laverbread. This delicacy is produced from seaweed early harvested along the Gower coastlines. Though it might appear as an off-putting, slimy green dollop on your traditional Welsh breakfast plate, trust me, it's an acquired taste. Strangely, it's said that this nutritious meal helped keep miners, who saw little daylight, in good health. Initially, I sampled it the more palatable way, on a sourdough toast accompanied by some cockles at the Plough & Harrow in Murton. Furthermore, Selwyn’s has made an innovative addition to their production- a machine imported from Japan that skillfully dries up the algae to create a unique seaweed snack. Healthful and highly addictive, these are packed neatly into chip-like packets. Could Gower sushi be the next big thing?
Brian Jones acquaints us with Selwyn’s naked Seaweed, fresh and crisp.
The magic behind an electrifying food scene is rooted deeply in the art of phenomenal farming. A scenic trip around Gower gives a sneak peek into various revolutionary farms. Nestled in the extreme south-west, Paviland Farm adorns the path of the Wales Coast Path. The ceaseless zeal of the Thomas family in nurturing sustainable agriculture creates a haven for individuals visiting the farm. Their strategic drift away from rampant practices allows for a scenic stroll along the clifftops. Benefiters of this transition are the free-roaming Welsh Black cattle, their grazing patterns help in controlling excessive growth of brambles and bracken, paving way for vibrant wildflowers to blossom. To ensure a safe co-existence, GPS collars are introduced to prevent them from approaching visitors too closely!
A series of informative boards educates visitors about the farm's dynamic shift into growing organic fruits, vegetables, buckwheat, quinoa, and pumpkins. This diversified farming model compensates for the lower yield rates. The farm's oats, for example, find their way as the major ingredients in local vegan ice-cream production. Meanwhile, such farms are becoming the backbone of sustainable agricultural practices and rewriting the rules of conventional farming, adding an innovative touch in promoting local produce and biodiversity.
The rugged cliffs of south-west Gower serve a crucial role as grazing grounds for the sturdy Welsh Black cattle.
A curious incident occurred over the summer when Chris Harry Thomas decided to cultivate sunflowers on National Trust land located close to Rhossili. The sunflowers were meant for producing oil and providing bird feed. Interestingly, the popular Gower Seafood Hut set up a temporary establishment here catering to the influx of visitors. These visitors contributed a £4 parking fee that reaffirmed the financial solidity of Wales National Trust's south department. Come mid-July, it is expected that the sunflower fields will return to their vibrant, blooming state that attracted an array of visitors.
Parallelly, work of the same vein is conducted at a more modest scale at the Killan Fach Eco farm. Operated by Liam Connick, the farm houses pigs, sheep, and hardy Black Rock hens, and harnesses solar power which is sold to local homes. The Eco farm not only invites tourists to embark on a nature trail from its premise, equipped with informative boards, but also sells duck, goose and hen eggs through an honesty box system. In an attempt to further diversify, Connick is considering the addition of a few glamping units to the farm's offering.
Delight in the taste of almond-infused sourdough croissants and the zest of raspberry twirls from Bogan’s Bakery.
Billy and Tash, the inspired, self-instructing locals behind Bogan's Bakery, have made Loughor their bread-baking haven. Since December, their home has been bustling with the creation of sourdough bread, croissants, and a variety of pastries, all of which trend to sell out daily. Making it a point to introduce fresh products to tickle your palate monthly, their summer specialty is a tempting fusion of raspberry and almond swirl. They cater to everyone, be it holiday homes, camping sites, or other bakeries.
One spot where food-connoisseurs congregate is the Gower Heritage Centre, nestled within a refurbished 12th-century watermill that grinds grain from Killan Fach's. Its Saturday makers' market is a cornucopia of treats — indulge in rich brownies (whipped up using Liam's eggs and local butter) crafted by Tir a Môr Bakes, or savor the goat cheese offerings from Alun and Angela’s new venture, Wobbly Bottom Cheeses. Chendore Luan, a noted food connoisseur, provides mouth-watering relishes as well as imparting wisdom in bread, cheese and pickle-making classes when allowed. With exciting new attractions introduced each month, it's always wise to visit their online platform for updates.
Sampling Gower Gin in a tasting chamber close to Port Eynon
For our ultimate experience, we bathed in the culinary magic conjured by Christos at another relatively new entrant on the scene. The Gower Gin Company, established in the quaint town of Port Eynon in 2017, boasts a repurposed bicycle shed that claims the title of the UK's most compact micro-distillery. Despite the drizzling weather outside, we found solace in the glass-enclosed tasting room overlooking the sea, a part of the owners, Siân & Andrew Brooks's inviting "gin garden". Over a jubilant course of sixty-minutes, we indulged in sampling six award-winning gins. The top picks were the Dylan Thomas-inspired Rhosili with a blend of foraged sea buckthorn, gorse, and linden flower, and a festive Bara Brith concoction. The icing on the cake was that the tastings could be booked online without any charges.
A spirited "Iechyd da!" resounded in the air to herald "good health" and show admiration for all the fervent protectors championing the cause of Gower's gastronomic future.
More Gower food and drink favourites
The Gower Brewery boasts a tempting selection of beers adored by locals.
Welsh Brew, a tea concoction vibrating with Assam and Kenyan Red blends, is the pride of a Mumbles-based company. This perfect amalgamation paired with soft Welsh water promises an unmatched cup of tea. Be sure to seek it out in local stores.
In 2019, Sally “Cupcake” Steadman introduced her Gower home bakery, guaranteeing doorstep delivery of scones paired with clotted cream, exquisite Welsh cakes, or a personalised birthday cake to your holiday residence.
Quench your thirst with everyone's favourite - Gower Gold, an elegant beer produced by Gower Brewery in Crofty, sublimely brewed using barley from Paviland Farm. The brewery has recently diversified its indulgence offerings by introducing a new sensation - GG Gelato, a frozen treat crafted with Paviland farm fruits. This delightful dessert is available at an ice-cream parlour adjacent to Estuary Bar and Rooms in Penclawdd, that began its journey in 2019.
While travelling from the north to Gower, be sure to grab refreshingly wholesome unprocessed milk from Llaeth Beynon in Llanelli. When conventional orders from coffee chains came to a halt during the lockdown, this innovative farm initiated the sale of its milk from a modern vending machine nestled by the M4, replete with reusable glass bottles. This unique contactless milkshake vending machine experience quickly became a lockdown hit.